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La dolce vita in the Byward
Wednesday September 6, 2000
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Tucked away in a corner of the Byward Market is my very secret retreat, small restaurant that serves some of the freshest, quickest, real Italian food this side of Rome. I’ll let you in on it now, so you can discover it too.
Hiding in the shadows at the very back of Italian delicatessen La Bottega Nicastro on George Street is a tiny kitchen, small countertop, and just enough tables to seat maybe 20 for lunch. And no more.
Only intrepid food lovers know about this restaurant at La Bottega, so hidden is it behind those tottering towers of tinned olive oil, Italian cheeses, more pasta than anyone could imagine, and myriad Mediterranean delicacies ranging from pestos to polenta, anchovies to artichokes. But those who really understand know that a forkful of Rosa’s daily pasta special is as good as taking a vacation in, well, Italy.
Rosa Lattanzio and Carmel Mammarella reign in this kitchen, imparting that authentic Italian feel as they talk to each other in Italian and address the customers in heavily accented English. Everyone know them simply as Rosa and Carmela, not by their last names. It’s that kind of place.
You can sit at the bar and watch the ladies prepare lunch, or perch at a tiny table to enjoy heart-warming dishes such as Rosa’s pasta fagioli soups, daily specials such as rigatoni all matriciana (pasta with onions, bacon and fresh tomato sauce), or sandwiches including Italian favourites such as fried calabrese salami and chicken balsamico.
Both are heavenly.
Rosa and Carmel have been in the catering business for more than 20 years, but it is clearly Rosa’s kitchen.
Rosa delights in hearing murmurs of appreciation from customers who are taken with her offerings. (Now, who wouldn’t appreciate praise for her work?)
But you also get the feeling that if you don’t finish your steaming pasta, then you have misbehaved and she might urge you to clean up the plate. (Well, maybe not really, but let’s pretend for a moment that not everyone finishes their food. It sometimes happens, you know.)
For those well-behaved customers with enough stamina and stomach capacity to consider dessert, Rosa’s tiramisu is a favourite. Like a trusted friend, tiramisu is always on the menu. It is creamy, rich, chocolatey with a hint of coffee — a dessert that really does lift your spirits as its Italian name suggests.
By 10 o’clock most mornings, Carmela has produced a couple of large pizza rounds of fresh, soft focaccia bread and is starting on the daily pizza specials.
by Hattie Klotz for the Ottawa Citizen, Food Section
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